Who else but Dries Van Noten could take a long, lean skirt in sumptuous floral-print duchesse silk, pair it with an oversized, sleeveless sweatshirt and make the mismatched ensemble the height of chic?
With his fall-winter 2010-11 collection, the critically acclaimed Belgian designer played the magpie, weaving disparate elements _ from rough canvas fabrics in military drab to fancy, matador-style silver embroidery _ into a gorgeous, toned-down collection.
"We started with '50s and '60s couture, the beautiful shapes, and also looked at other garments, menswear, military uniforms and mixed them together in a rebellious way," the genial designer told The Associated Press in a backstage interview. "You get the same elegance, but in a really different way."
Models with deliberately unkempt hair wore drab pants cut wide through the hips and pulled tight through the calf with a row of straps. Trench coats were shorn of their sleeves and smart camel blazers looked as if they'd borrowed their sleeves from a toreador jacket, sparkling with silver sequins.
An indigo stain spread down one bottle-shaped cocktail dress with a nipped waist, making the floral silk look as if it had been on the receiving end of a bottle of India ink. In fact, it had. Van Noten said his team brushed on layer after layer of indigo paint onto the silk.
Gray sweatshirts topped off the silken skirts.
"I wanted to show, 'look it's only a sweatshirt with a pair of gloves, but it looks so chic and beautiful,'" Van Noten said.
Leopard-print scarves, chunky crocodile heels and gloves in butterscotch leather added an extra touch of ladylike class to the looks.
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